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This is the favorite sport of the Ladakhis. During every
festival polo and archery matches are held.
They are competitive events, the surrounding villages
all sending teams, and the shotting takes place according
to strict etiquette, to the accompaniment of the music
of surna and daman (oboe and drum). As important
as the archey are the interludes of dancing and other
entertainment. Chang, the local barely beer, flows freely,
but there is rarely any rowdiness. the crowd attend in
their Sunday bet, the men invariably in traditional dress,
and the women wearing their brightest brocade mantles
and their heaviest jewellery. Archery may be the pretext
for the gathering, but the party's the thing.
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Polo
is traditional to the western Himalaya, especially to
Baltistan and Gilgit. It was probably introduced into
Ladakh in the mid-17th century by King Sengge Namgyal,
whose mother was a Balti princess. The game played here
differs in many respects from the international game,
which indeed is adapted from what British travellers saw
in the Western Himalya and Manipur in the 19th century.
Here, each team consists of six players, and the game
lasts for an hour with a ten minute break. Altitude notwithstanding,
the hardy local ponies--the best of which come from Zanskar
-- scarely seem to suffer, though play can be fast and
furious. Each goal is greeted by a brust of music from
surna and daman ; and the players often
show extraordinary skill. For example, when starting play
after a goal the scorer gallops up to midfield holdng
ball and mallet in the right hand, and throws the ball,
hitting it in the same movement towards the opposite goal.
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Unlike
the international game, polo in Ladakh is not exclusively
for the rich. Traditionally, almost every village had
its polo-ground, and even today it is played with verve
in many places besides Leh, especially in Dras and Chushot,
a big valley close to Leh. In Leh, it has been partialy
institutionalized with regular tournaments and occasional
exhibition matches being played on the polo-ground in
the shadow of the palace. The local crowd takes a keen
interest, especially in those matches in which a civilian
team takes on the Army. Altogether, polo adds a unique
kind of colour and excitement to summer in Leh.
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Fort
Road, Post Box 137,
Leh - Ladakh - 194101,
India.
Tel : 91-1982-52640/52818
Fax: 91-1982-52408
E-mail: Ladakhparadise@yahoo.co.in
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